Fit Fare

Salmon is the healthiest seafood choice because it contains an abundance of omega-3 essential fatty acids, says Dana Jacobi in the 12 Best Foods Cookbook. It is also one of the most versatile fish: it can be grilled, broiled, baked, sauteed, steamed, poached, braised, and even stir-fried. You can use canned salmon in salads, croquets, or just toss into a pot of freshly-cooked brown rice for an instant dinner.

While Atlantic salmon is most common, wild Atlantic salmon are almost extinct. Virtually all Atlantic salmon is farmed in the United States, Canada, Chile, Scotland, and other European countries. There is a lot of debate over whether it is better for the environment to eat wild or farmed salmon and it would seem that wild salmon is definitely healther than farmed. Jacobi does not address that issue in her book.

Pacific salmon is mostly wild and includes five species:

King (Chinook). The aristocrat of salmon, with pink, moist flesh that is the fattiest and richest in omega-3s. Fish average 20 pounds, but some weigh 45 pounds or more.

Sockeye (red or blueback). Redder and firmer fleshed than king salmon, with each fish weighing in at about 6 pounds. It is sold fresh, canned, and smoked and has an assertive taste that some people prefer.

Coho (silver). With pink-orange flesh that is dry and firm, this midsize salmon, averaging 12 pounds, is increasingly found at fish counters during its fall run.

Pink. Used mostly for canning, this abundant species has soft flesh and mild flavor.

Chum (Keta). Used mainly in food service, it has little omega-3 content.

-from 12 Best Foods Cookbook.

Salmon is high in vitamins A, B6 and B12 and is rich in potassium, phosphorous, selenium, and calcium (with bones). Its omega-3 fatty acids reduce the risk of heart disease and heart attacks by lowering bad LDL cholesterol, blood pressure, and helping to prevent blood from clotting. By reducing inflammation, the omega-3 fatty acids may also benefit people with rheumatoid arthritis and other auto immune diseases. It is recommended that you eat 12 ounces (4 servings) a week of salmon and other fish rich in EFAs such as tuna and sardines. Walnuts and flax are also sources of omega-3 fatty acids.

My neighborhood grocery store had wild Coho salmon on sale, so I bought it to use for the recipe I decided to test. This recipe was actually a double play - Salmon Paillard with Napa Cabbage and Spinach Slaw and Soy and Honey Drizzle uses two recipes from the book. The Napa Cabbage and Spinach Slaw was an excellent companion for the salmon, and the soy and honey drizzle brought all of the flavors together. In all honesty, it was a little more effort than it was worth to cut the fillets in half lengthwise and I ended up with more than four slices by the time I was done. I don’t think anything would be lost by grilling or broiling the fillets whole. It would be just as delicious with the slaw and the dressing.

This would make a lovely dish to serve to guests.

Salmon Paillard with Napa Cabbage and Spinach Slaw
and Soy and Honey Drizzle

2 tsp light olive or canola oil
2 8-oz. skinless salmon fillets
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Napa and Spinach Slaw (recipe follows)
1/2 tsp sichuan peppercorn powder, or freshly round white pepper, for garnish

Soy and Honey Drizzle

2 Tbsp wildflower or mesquite honey
1 Tbsp reduced-sodium soy sauce
Juice of 1/2 lime
1/4 tsp red-pepper flakes

Salmon:

Coat a grill or ridged grill-pan with the oil.

Lay the salmon on a flat work surface, and place your palm on top to hold it securely. Use a thin, sharp knife to slice each fillet horizontally into 2 slabs. Season each piece of fish with 1/4 tsp salt and 2 grinds of black pepper.

Grill the salmon until well-marked, 2 minutes. Turn and grill until the other side is marked, 2 minutes longer.

Soy and Honey Drizzle:

Place the honey, soy sauce, lime juice, and pepper flakes in a small
saucepan. Pour in 1/2 cup water and boil over medium-high heat until
reduced to 1/2 cup, about 2 minutes. Use warm.

Make a bed with 1 cup of slaw on each of 4 dinner plates. Top each with a piece of salmon. Sprinkle each with a pinch or peppercorn powder or white pepper and spoon 2 tablespoons Soy and Honey Drizzle around the plate and on the fish.

Serve immediately.

Servings: 4

Per serving: 228 calories, 15 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 23 g protein, 0 g carbohydrates, 0 g fiber

b>Napa and Spinach Slaw

1 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, or 1/4 tsp freshly ground white pepper
6 cups Napa cabbage, cut crosswise into 1/2″ strips
4 cups spinach leaves, shredded into 1/4″ strips

1 medium yellow bell pepper, seeded and julienned
juice of 1/2 lemon
1 Tbsp rice wine vinegar
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp canola oil
1 tsp roasted sesame oil

If using white pepper, skip this step. Roast the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium-high heat until they are fragrant, 3 minutes, shaking the pan frequently. Cool the peppercorns on a plate. Crush them to a powder using a mortar and pestle, a spice grinder, or a clean coffee mill. Or, place the peppercorns in a medium, dry skillet and crush them with a smaller skillet. Measure 1/2 teaspoon, reserving the rest for another use.

In a large bowl, combine the Napa cabbage, spinach, and bell pepper, using your hands to toss them. Add the lemon juice, vinegar, salt, black pepper, and the Sichuan or white pepper. Toss to mix. Drizzle on the canola and sesame oils. Toss, using 2 forks or your hands. Serve within an hour of adding the lemon juice and oils.

Per Serving: 43 calories, 2 g fat, 0 g saturated fat, 2 g protein, 6 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber.

Servings: 4

from 12 Best Foods Cookbook, by Dana Jacobi (Rodale Press, 2005)